A one year adventure as an expat in Mumbai, India. Originally from Germany, with an Italian father, a German mother, and a Russian wife, this will be a bit of an adventure after 10 years in comfortable New York City.

Friday, July 15, 2005

Moving Day

So our move sort of went smoothly. Deepak, our driver, had his day
off, the first in four weeks. I am not sure how that works, really,
but we had a different driver on the day of the move. Ksenia pretty
quickly stated the obvious: "I don't think he knows how to drive".
Well, he really didn't. He had no clue where he was going, when to
stop at the green light, or when to go at the red light, and, best of
all, he spent more time honking than I would have ever thought
possible. Deepak honks the horn quite often as well, but at least one
can sort of see the reasoning. This guy seemed to use the horn for no
reason whatsoever. I guess it's true, as it says on the back of every
truck in this country, and I am not making this up: "Horn OK Please".
Well, sometimes it says "Horn OK Pliese".

Anyways, we ended up being half an hour late for the handover of the
apartment, but it was OK. I had not noticed when I had looked at the
apartment, but of course, Ksenia noticed right away: Whenever the
elevator door is open, it plays an atrocious midi melody, kind of like
an ice cream truck in NYC. But that was not enough. The kitchen has a
water filter that also plays music. The filter is some mysterious
contraption with an electric switch, and whenever it's ready for use,
and in fact for the whole time thereafter, it plays an even more
annoying midi melody. Maybe it's designed to help scare off the germs
in the water, but in any event that's what we have in our kitchen.

The next thing we notice, because the owner of the apartment gives us
a tour of it, is that this 2 bedroom apartment must have about 70
light and other switches. It seems like each individual light bulb
and electric outlet has its own dedicated switch, and none of the
rooms has one main light, but instead a whole assortment of light
sources that one can switch on or off in endless variations. Of
course, since none of the light bulbs appears to be more than 10W,
it's nevertheless a little dark, or maybe let's say there is always a
nice ambience. Anyways, the sheer number of light switches is
dizzying. We had wondered about the TV commercials for Euroswitches,
which we had seen a few times, but whatever those really are, people
seem to have a real love for light switches here.

Unfortunately, Ksenia also developed a serious case of toothache, so
we took the opportunity to ask the apartment owner about a good
dentist. Back in the hotel, where we picked up our second load of
luggage, we also asked the front desk, but when we called the dentist
they recommended, we were told that he was already gone for the day.
That was at 11:00am. The apartment owner's dentist seemed to be a
better bet. He also had already gone, but he'd be back at 4:30pm, and
so we went there in the afternoon. We had the dental office give our
driver directions over the phone, but he still had to ask two people
on the street and call the dental office back some more. Maybe we
aren't the only ones who can't make much sense of addresses in this
town. The dental office, proudly going by the name "Only Smiles",
turned out to be a good find. There was hardly a wait, the prescribed
anti-biotica were $1.20, and the x-rays were done the next day.
Unfortunately, Ksenia needs a root-canal, so that's not so great, but
she's scheduled for next week, and on the plus side, we no longer have
the shits. We both had a mild to not so mild case of the shits, but
that's over for now.

Before we went to the dentist, we spent the afternoon hunting for
kitchen and cleaning supplies. But first we had yet another fantastic
meal at a restaurant. The waiter recommended to go to KNB or to
Shopper's Shop for kitchen and cleaning supplies. He must have been
confused, because both places featured women's dresses and a very
small selection of tea pots and such. Shopper's Shop is kind of a mall
and not exactly what we needed. When we asked a sales woman there
about kitchen and cleaning supplies, like mops and spunges etc., she
tried to steer us to her water boilers, apologized for not having any
mops for sale and recommended another store around the corner. Now,
that store was a little closer to what we needed, at least they sold
ashtrays, right next to the women's dresses and men's shoes. So we
bought an ashtray (with the usual ceremony of one guy selling, one guy
wrapping, one guy taking the money, and a fourth guy handing over the
ashtray), and walked out of there. Luckily, Ksenia then remembered a
store somewhere near a Barista (the Indian Starbucks), which should
have everything we wanted, so after a few futile inquiries about the
location of that Barista, we eventually found it. And, indeed, Rs2,200
later we were loaded up on spunges, a mop, toilet paper, and mosquito
repellent - just the sort of stuff one needs to get started.
Interestingly, toilet paper really does seem like a luxury item here.
At $5 for six measly rolls, I was tempted to look for the golden
prints and silk embroidery, but they were just plain white and
expensive.

Our moving day ended with the discovery of a very cute pink Lizard in
the living room, and of a less cute but thumb-sized cockroach in the
kitchen. There wasn't much in terms of pots or pans or anything in the
apartment, but a big can of anti-cockroach spray there was, and it
came very handy. Ksenia went after it with full gusto, and that was
the end of it. Our pots and pans etc. arrived the next day, yesterday.
Ksenia is still in pain with her teeth, and we have interviewed a
maid. Tomorrow, we'll go to a dance festival and continue the car
buying saga. We still need to get DSL, but at least there is something
called instant internet here. It's dead slow, but works from any phone
line on demand, so I am writing this via e-mail from Ksenia's G4,
since I haven't set up my computer yet either. The weather is quite
nice these days, and Ksenia sways back and forth from "If it weren't
for the food, I'd hate this country" to being quite taken with the
various fabrics she has found, as well as with her Indian dance and
the yoga classes she is taking. So, all in all, we are already on our
way to a normal life. And, still, I can't wait to get a car, so we can
get out of town, for a totally different India altogether, I am sure.

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2 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey there,
I've been following your blog for quite a while, and must say I find it very amusing on the whole.

I've been away from India for a year now, studying in Wash U, St Louis MO, and in a fundamentally very similar (though externally very different) bitter sweet relationship with this country (I don't know if I may call it yours) to the one you are in with mine.

I guess it is interesting to see how people from the West react to India beyond the obvious third world cliches, and I must commend your blog for attempting to capture the subtlety of the Indian experience, and yet in its own sweet Western way, falling one tiny step short of fully discovering what makes India a great country with a soul and a pulse and a heartbeat and another dimension. It's a subtlety that I greatly miss in my own life now in the US. And I can't wait to get back to that mess that is my homeland.

Thanks for making me smile as I read your entries - for making me sheepishly proud of my roots (in spite of all the inconvenience they cause you on a daily basis) in a way that no hurriedly contemptuous Westerner (and I'm glad to decide you're not one of them) could ever make me. Not with his words anyway.

We live in a beautiful world. And I'm glad to come from my very crowded corner of it.

Thanks again,
Rahul.

10:32 AM

 
Blogger spinetrak said...

Hi Rahul -

Thanks for your comments. I can certainly appreciate that you miss any sort of subtlety in the fairly bland and uniform life of St. Louis, MO. Boy, I would, too!

And while I cannot by any stretch of the imagination claim that I understand this country (nor St. Louis, for that matter), I can only describe what I see and what goes through my little head when I see it. As someone pointed out elsewhere, I am only showing my own ignorance. But that's fine by me - I am not a journalist, nor objective, nor can I possibly claim to do this country any justice with my rants.

What I am hoping and somehow suspect will happen though is that over time I will get a little less sarcastic and a little more appreciative about the mess called India. If I leave here in a year and can't say I've learned a lot, then I did something wrong. I might even say, you know what, Mumbai and India are pretty cool, actually. I guess we'll see.

10:47 AM

 

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